The scents of M are their own specialized science. One of the rare situations in which chemistry and art not only collide, but equally treated with respect and appreciation.
However, as with any profitable global mega dollar industry, she has a bad habit of speeches in her own "insider" longo. This jargon barrier and endless choice in a very saturated market does not make discovering a new fragrance any easier.
We can not do much to restrain the choices that exist, which by the way does not diminish so quickly. Nevertheless, we can do a lot to make you parfume-linguistically, to demystify the smoke and mirrors, and to make a more informed, more personalized, and more visible selection.
Men's Fragrance Types
Finding the right concentration of fragrance is essential. Too bright, and it may fade without a trace; too intense, and it may have a longer life than a Duracell rabbit, resulting in a cracking headache. To better understand which formulation is right for you, we first need to think about how to create a fragrance. A mixture of oils (known as the formula) is diluted into a "carrier", usually alcohol, which helps to stabilize the odor and control its shelf life on the skin. The greater the ratio of oil to alcohol content, the stronger, more persistent, and usually more expensive is the fragrance.
Eau Fraiche (literally translated: freshwater) is the Camp Shandy in the Perfumery Pecking Order. With the lowest concentration of oils (usually 1 to 3 percent) and diluted with water, unlike alcohol, they only stay on the skin for about 1 to 2 hours, making them more suitable for an uplifting, but temporary, aftershock.
Eau de Cologne
As with Eau Fraiche, in the vicinity of Eau de Cologne, there is a snobbery, due to the low oil concentration (2-4 percent) and the volatile activity (usually 2 -4 hours before evaporation). However, it is mostly diluted with alcohol, so it is three-dimensional. The perfect balance between understated, yet present flair is a good choice for a summer fragrance. Do not confuse the generic term "Cologne" with "Eau de Cologne", as "Cologne" is just a colloquial language that is often used to describe a male's odor.
Eau de Toilette
The credibility of a fragrance dramatically boosts a gait when it enters the realm of the Eau de Toilet (also known as EDT) enters). With an oil concentration of 5 to 15 percent, these fragrances can accompany you throughout the day, but not into the evening. As such, it's the ideal way to be worn in the office, with fresh head notes like citrus in the center and the cocktail containing richer ingredients that are just to help.
Eau de Parfum
Historically, Eau de Parfum formulas have become increasingly popular in female perfumery. With an oil concentration of 15 to 20 percent (duration: 4 to 5 hours), full-bodied ingredients such as leather or wood must do the most hard work and give them their own sophistication. However, do not be surprised, you should expect to pay twice the price you would normally pay for a comparable eau de toilette.
Perfume / Extrait de Parfum
With a rich 20-30 perfume has the highest concentration and is therefore considered by fragrance lovers as the purest option. Like a fine cognac or a Cuban cigar, they hang in the air long after you leave a room, and usually remain on your skin until you wash them off. Make your choice if you want your brave presence to be known from morning to midnight, eg. At a wedding.
All fragrances can be identified as belonging to a family of like-minded fragrances that share some of the same DNA and, in many cases, elicit the same emotional responses from their owners. As with various wine categories, these fragrance families are usually run by their main ingredients and the regions in which they are native. It may sound like presumptuous smell, but it's worth learning because if you like a certain scent, you'll probably appreciate other scents from the same family, which makes shopping easier.
Aromatic fragrances, which are equally soothing and uplifting, are based primarily on plants and have a mystical forest quality. With herbal notes such as rosemary, thyme, lavender, cumin and clary sage, which are often combined with more powerful, musky notes, they traditionally limit themselves almost exclusively to male perfumeries.
(LR) Byredo Sunday Cologne, Floris No. 89, Yves Saint Laurent La Nuit de L & Homme
Pronounced & # 39; shee-pra & # 39; (derived from the French translation for Cyprus), this is considered by perfumers to be the most refined and rounded of all families. These scents come from Roman times and are characterized by a woody-mossy base. They are a precise science of combined notes (called chords), including citrus (usually bergamot), patchouli, cistus labdanum and animal oakmoss.
(LR) Geranium Nefertum by Molton Brown, Aramis Classic, Hermès Terre d & # 39; Hermès
Also known as " Hesperide's fragrance family known, as the name suggests, this category is a feast for energetic and spicy citrus fruits. Expect that orange, bergamot, lemon, tangerine, yuzu and grapefruit, which are usually combined with flowers and leaves of citrus fruits such as neroli, petitgrain and orange blossom, will break down the rim and achieve a delicate finish. Citrus fragrances are usually hard, but are considered one of the most subtle and best-wearing fragrance categories.
(LR) Jo Malone lime basil and mandarin, John Varvatos Artisan Pure, Acqua di Parma Colonia
For obvious reasons the floral group of All fragrances are considered the most feminine of all (though there are many great masculine fragrances in which irises or geraniums occur). However, it is also the largest and most diverse, probably due to the wide range of floral based oils available to every perfumer. Jasmin and Rose are the main characters in this piece, supported by an endless supply of fragrant flowers, including gardenias, tuberoses and magnolias.
(LR) Tom Ford Black Orchid, Prada L & Homme, Creed Green Irish Tweed
The Fougère family has a retro charm had a little moment in the 1970s. It is the greenest of all fragrance categories (ie it smells of crushed grass and leaves) and is reserved almost exclusively for male fragrances. Fougère means "fern-like" in French and is a flavor for steroids. It contains traditional lavender, oakmoss and coumarin (which smells like freshly harvested hay).
(LR) Montblanc Legend, Versace Eros, Penhaligon's Sartorial
Characterized by its powdery, mature, smoky and deep Qualities, the leather family of fragrances whose origins lie in a time when tanneries used smoke, wood, resins, tobacco and even honey to disguise the evil odors of the tanning process. Another group that is predominantly male, today many leather notes are made from synthetic compounds, but those that are still good enough to create instant classics.
(LR) Tom Ford Tuscan Leather, Armani Code, Dior Fahrenheit
Awakening memories of old books, pencil shavings and campfires The category Woody is one of the most emotional and nostalgic of all fragrance families. Dry, warm and rich woods such as sandalwood, cedar, patchouli, oak, sandalwood and vetiver tend to steer this group towards macho. No wonder you will not only find some scent icons here.
(LR) Gucci Guilty, Dsquared2 Wood, Hugo Boss Boss The Scent
Full of oriental promises, the category is oriental and opulent hedonic and sensual. Spices and resins such as frankincense, oud and myrrh from East India, Turkey and the Middle East give these fragrances an almost hypnotic note and are among the most expensive (due to their rare ingredients). Often worn as an evening scent, they usually have quite a punch and can be a bit overwhelming.
(LR) Dolce & Gabbana The One, Cartier L & # 39; Envol de Cartier, Viktor & Rolf Spicebomb
Fragrance Life Cycle
All fragrances have a life cycle with most traditional men's fragrances in a pyramidal structure; divided into three layers (top, middle, bottom) with notes that evaporate in a specific order. Creating fragrances is not just about combining the right essential oils, but also the order in which they appear and how long they last. Similar to music, without order it would just be a random pile of notes without structure or harmony.
The top of the above pyramid contains topnotes (also called head) notes). These are the ingredients that jump into the foreground and give the first impression of a fragrance. After about half an hour, they evaporate from the skin. They usually have a citrusy, fruity or herbaceous origin, such as mint, lemon, grapefruit, bergamot, basil or ginger-the-accelerator energy. While many top-end ingredients are inexpensive to make (presumably because they do not hang around too long), their importance is paramount as they are often the basis for selling over-the-counter perfumes.
& # 39; Dry down & # 39; is the perfume term for evaporation (essentially what stays on your skin after the notes have been removed). After ticking the top notes, the middle notes become more identifiable as they usually take 3-4 hours before going through the same process. They are the heart (but not the soul that comes from the base) of any smell and therefore usually soft, familiar and calming. Floral-based oils such as jasmine, neroli, rose, lavender and geranium, as well as colder spices such as cumin and coriander are reliable and continuously used examples of heart notes.
Just as every story needs a beginning, a middle and an end, the base notes assume responsibility for the final act. They are present on the floor as well as reinforcing the middle notes. Normally, they do not enter the dehydration process until the upper notes have disappeared and the middle notes are in the middle of their life cycle. The base notes are usually more luxurious and precious and therefore the most expensive in the lab – oud, sandalwood, cedarwood, patchouli, leather, amber and musk – and play with the heart notes, complementing them and interacting with them before lingering.
Key Fragrances Notes
With a few hundred natural (at least) and more than 1,500 synthetic materials available to perfumers, the infinite combination of grades and percentages. With every used fragrance, the door opens an endless supply of new fragrances available on the market. Some notes are easier to identify than others (if you do not know how to smell lavender, pepper or lemon, you need to get more out), while others, like Frankincense, Galbanum, Iris or Ambroxan, you probably never will have encountered. Despite the fact that all grades are gender-neutral, there are still a number of ingredients that traditionalists consider more masculine than feminine. Of the scents most commonly used in men's fragrances, these are the ones you may not be familiar with.
Elegant, sweet and delicate. Neroli is an essential oil that comes from the flowers of … the Seville orange tree (sometimes known as "bitter"). Often used in eau de cologne, which emphasizes its citrus rim, it is sometimes mistaken for orange blossom (slightly floral). This is understandable since both oils come from the same plant but undergo a different distillation process. Neroli is distilled using steam, giving it a fresher, stronger facet. Grown mainly in Tunisia and Morocco, the branches and leaves of the same tree are used for a different fragrance, petitgrain.
More than three quarters of the total Bergamot harvest of the perfume industry in southern Italy, more specifically in Calabria. A citrus fruit (something between a lemon and a grapefruit) from the citrus bergamia tree. Actually, it is too bitter to eat, but the perfect screw to pump up a scent. Used in men's fragrances and always used as a top note, it is thanks to its additional wealth, the "most adult" of all citrus notes.
A dry grass from In India, essential vetiver oil (which can not be synthetically replicated) is distilled from the plant's roots rather than from its fauna. With a woody, smoky, almost dusty aroma, it is one of the backbones of men's fragrances used both in the heart and in the base. The best qualities of Vetiver are recognized as originating from Haiti, but wherever it comes from, it is probably the king of all philanthropic notes.
One of the most polarizing notes in Haiti perfumery, you are either a lover of oud or a despiser. Expect a hefty rise in the price of fragrances from the world's most expensive raw materials. Adopted better by evening scents, it has an almost royal or biblical quality, which is not surprising since oil (made from the resin of the agarwood tree) has been used for centuries in incense and on the skin for religious and ceremonial purposes. Oud has always been favored by men from the Middle East because of its history, but thanks to designers like Tom Ford who have modernized it, it is now equally recognized and appreciated in the West.
Despite his reputation as a hippie, patchouli is one of the most majestic flavors of men. The oil is harvested from a bushy plant, which actually belongs to the mint family and is native to East Asia (Indonesia is the source of the really good products). The dried leaves of the plant are distilled in a steam process to give a smoky, almost animalistic quality. Intoxicating and hypnotic, velvety and spicy, it is also celebrated for its therapeutic benefits and therefore used in alternative medicine.
Top Men's Fragrance Tips
Changing with the Season
Certain fragrances and notes fit better at certain seasons. Colognes, citrus and flower juices are better from spring to summer, while oriental and perfumed leather or wood fragrances are more at home in the autumn or winter scents. While this is not required, it is true that the heat dissolves the chemical bonds that give a perfume its subtle odor, allowing the perfume to overwhelm under the blazing sun.
Know The Occasion
As you dress for the occasion, you should also spray for it. In order to keep your employees from getting a headache, something is needed in the boardroom – everything that is made on a vetiver or neroli basis will do the job – while you can afford it, with tonka bean, turkish rose and amber in the evenings to become more seductive. Also, remember how long you need a fragrance for durability. This helps you to find the best concentration for your budget.
Try Before You Buy
When shopping for a new scent, use the extinguisher cards instead of spraying directly on yourself. Realistically, you can only spray three on your own skin before they start to layer and make a false impression. Spray all the fragrances you like on the extinguishers, then go away and drink a coffee (coffee beans neutralize your sense of smell) and check them. If you've narrowed it down to your favorites, try them out on your skin before making your final decision.
Learn where to spray
While most men spray fragrances on their wrists (a strange choice, the ideal place for spraying lies on your neck and behind your ears – the perfect place If someone is leaning forward to talk to you, be careful and do not overdo the dosage Many men use their scent all day again, which is not necessary as most fragrances are molecules that reactivate and reborn Whenever moisture gets in contact with them, stick to three sprays before going out the door.
Play With Gender
Basically, all are Fragrances gender neutral, as they have no genitals, its only conditioning and marketing, which classifies certain fragrances in a male or female genre on your own taste, and you should never feel limited to bottles that say "for him", instead experimenting not just with the available unisex fragrances, but also with some of the decidedly feminine fragrances. For example, Frederic Malles smells a portrait of a lady & # 39; s with a wealth of patchouli and rose also excellent in alpha males.
Know Your Notes
There are thousands of ingredients for perfume makers (also known as "noses"), but there are some commonly used staples in men's fragrances like bergamot, lavender, Sandalwood, vetiver and cedar wood. Not only working in the family, but also understanding which notes appear the most in a handful of scents makes it easier to find new ones.
Keeping Smells Smart
It's a bit of a myth that all fragrances disappear after only six months. Their true shelf life depends heavily on the quality of the ingredients and the structure of the perfume. That is, some may take several years. As soon as you spray your first spray, oxygen enters the bottle and the degeneration process begins. However, they can help keep them fresh by storing them free of light and heat.
A Brief History of Men's Scents
Humans have used scented oils from wood, resins and plants for plants, spices and animal musk species for a variety of purposes, including ceremonial, mystical, religious and medicinal purposes since at least 4,000 years ago (or ever since anything was actually recorded). During this time, the fragrances have developed dramatically when they arrived in Europe from Mesopotamia to Arabia (still known as the land of perfumes), Egypt and Persia.
for men's fragrances certainly begins in 1709. At that time, chemist Giovanni Marina Farina created a lighter, happier version of the heavy fragrances that were popular in her day. His invention, which he named Cologne in honor of the city in which he mixed it, is bursting with citrus fruits, flowers and herbs and was recognized as the first recognizable male scent.
Skip from Napoleon's Obsession For rosemary-enriched fragrances that he dabbed behind the ear before the battle, the first fragrance called "for Men" was released in 1934 in Paris by Caron, "Pour un Homme "All reports contain a hypnotic blend of lavender, vanilla, amber and cedar wood.
In modern times, the 1950s gave us our first Chanel fragrance for men Pour Monsieur, the 1960s were more risky with product launches such as Eau Sauvage by Dior. The '70s saw breathtaking alpha masculinity (think Polo by Ralph Lauren), hedonistic power scents like Calvin Klein's obsession back in the' 80s, to the times we live in today and gender-neutral flavors The circle closes and has become the agenda again.
Photographer: Mitch Payne
Still Life Stylist: Maya Linhares-Marx
Words: Adrian Clark